Into Guatemala-Finca Ixobel to Semuc Champey

Leaving Belize, we headed into Guatemala crossing the border near San Ignacio. The border crossing was fairly straightforward: Check out of Belize and get the vehicle stamp in Luis’ passport canceled, then head into Guatemala to get the stamps and vehicle papers there. It was nice and easy and within a half hour we were on the road again.

We had already been to Flores and Tikal on a previous trip so we decided to bypass the northern Peten and headed straight to Finca Ixobel near Poptun for a few days. Finca Ixobel is a long standing travelers’ stop in the area and really the only reason to be stopping in Poptun. They offer camping, rooms in little “treehouses” (more like little shacks on stilts), or dorm rooms, private rooms and even small cabanas. They also have a delicious restaurant/bakery and offer a nice place to relax for a few days or even take some of the tours they offer.

Our main reason for stopping at Finca Ixobel was more of a nostalgic one. We had stayed here for a few days three years ago while backpacking around Guatemala. During our stay we met a few couples that were driving the Americas in their own vehicles. After talking with these folks we decided that was what we should be doing and the roots of our idea for Lost World Expedition began to take hold. Three years of planning and here we are again, pretty excited to be back at Finca Ixobel, living the dream that had started here. The funny part is that it rained for a good part of our stay and it was raining the last time we were here as well. Maybe our memories of the place are destined to include the wet and rain!

From Poptun we headed over to Lanquin and Semuc Champey. It is a long drive on dirt roads the whole way there, but the surrounding countryside is quite beautiful. The road would wind up a steep hillside only to get to the top and drop back down to get ready to climb another. In every little village we drove through, little kids would come running out to the road and yell “Gringo, Gringo!” It was pretty funny and we couldn’t figure out if this was an insult or if they just didn’t see many gringos passing through very often. Whichever the case they were so cute we couldn’t take offense anyways.

Driving on the "highway" to Semuc Champey we were a little surprised when we passed this semi.

Another vehicle we passed on the way. The bus was soo full these guys had to ride on top!

We finally made our way to Semuc Champey and found a hostel right next door that let us camp in the front yard. The river that flows through the area is the same one that flows through Semuc Champey and there is a great little swimming hole. We enjoyed a nice dip in the water to wash off all the road dust from our long drive.

When we woke up our first morning there, we discovered we had another flat tire. After a bit of investigation we determined that the leak was not from the tire but there was a crack on the side of the wheel. This is the second time this has happened to us after a long drive on dirt roads (each time has been with a different tire). When we looked at our money stores to try to figure out what to do, we also discovered that we had forgotten to stop at an ATM on our way here (not that we passed any anyways) and were now out of money. The nearest ATM was 60km away and we needed money to buy another wheel, no tire to repair. However, we had driven all this way and REALLY wanted to check out Semuc Champey. We had a little bit of money left, but not enough to pay for camping for the night ($5). Luckily we found some helpful guests at the hostel who were willing to buy some ice cold cervezas off us. Maybe we should make a business out of peddling ice cold beer to weary travelers? Nah, we would probably drink it all before we could sell it!

At Semuc Champey, the Cahabon River runs through a deep canyon in the middle of a lush green jungle, with steep rock walls climbing up on both sides. A natural limestone bridge runs across the river, with some of the water flowing over the bridge and forming a series of beautifully colored, clear water pools, that cascade down the bridge. The majority of the river flows through a tunnel under the bridge and you can go stand at the edge and watch the water rushing under. It is a little scary standing there because the water is flowing so fast if you fall in, you’d be lucky if they are able to find your body. On the other end of the bridge the water that flows over the bridge cascades back down to join the rushing river as it exits from the underground tunnel. There are some cool caves that you “can” climb up under the waterfall as long as the guards don’t catch you (apparently a few folks have been injured while exploring). Luis says it is pretty awesome in the caves, but Lacey wouldn’t know because she wussed out and didn’t go.

We climbed up the practically vertical trail to the mirador, and were rewarded with an amazing view of the pools running through the jungle below. Afterwards we spent the rest of the day enjoying a swim in the beautiful pools and chatting with all the other travelers we met there and a few visiting Guatemalans.